Recommendations of restaurants in Tuscany and Umbria – by Elvio Milleri, the owner of the Michelin-winning restaurant Era Ora in Copenhagen.
And tips for other good restaurants. Your tips and ideas are highly appreciated, so if you have tried a good or charming restaurant on your trip then write to firstname.lastname@example.org.
Turengårtil.dk have gotten the food-happy Italian, Elvio Milleri, to pinpoint the places where you eat best in Tuscany and Umbria.
Elvio Milleri lived in Umbria from the start of 1950’s to start 1980’s where he ventured to Denmark to start his own restaurants. He still retains the finger on the pulse in his home country. He visits Italy roughly 10 times each year. Both to visit family and friends, but also to greet wine producers and the like.
Where: Via Assisi 15, 06089 Torgiano, Perugia, Umbrien
The restaurant is driven by signorea Marisa who has become an elderly women. You only have about four or five tables available, and chicken walk freely between. It is a fantastic place where you can get typical local dishes like stewed rabbit with onion, capers, olives, sage, white wine and vinegar cooked into the sauce. Or coratelli. »Call and ask what she has on the menu or tell her what you would like to have. A meal is only 150 kr. with wine. But you can bring your own wine – it can turn out to be better than the one served.«, Elvio Milleri laughs.
Where: Via Pietro Vannucci 32, 06053 Deruta, Perugia, Umbrien
Sandri Pasticceria lies in an old bar from the 18th century. It is a an elongated, slim room with a bar on one side and row of tables on the other. There’s just place to walk between. »Here you will get the most fantastic cakes and small sandwiches. They make it all themselves in a wood-fired oven. Just like you did it 100 years ago. I often enjoy breakfast here«, says Elvio Milleri. Amongst the cakes you can taste, is a maritozzo, which is a flat small cake that Elvio Milleri often ate on his way to school, a diplomatico with with cream and liqueur or a zuppa inglese, which is a kind of tiramisu with cream, liqueur, lemon peel and chocolate.
Where: Via dei Priori 78, Perugia, Umbrien
»I remember this place from when I was a boy. Here we would sometimes eat pizza. Good and rustic. Amongst were pizzas with potatoes or eggplants. It was really good«.
Where: Vocabolo Le Casacce, Miralduolo, 06089 Torgiano, Umbrien
»You need to eat here if you want to try some fantastic fritto with vegetables as artichoke, eggplant or squash flowers.The meat is also very good. Additionally, it is very cheap to eat at I Birbi. You will probably pay between kr. 200 and 300 per person for a full meal«.
The restaurant Da Settimio lies by the bank of the lake Lago Trasimeno and rests in a house where the walls are plastered with trophies and pictures from the family’s hunting trips to Africa, back in the day. »They serve fish fresh from the lake and also pheasants and duck. Try their fish soup or homemade pasta with fish«, Elvio Milleri recommends.
Where: Via Salnitraria 15, 06038 Spello, Perugia, Umbrien
»This restaurant is absolutely worth a visit. It has a Michelin star and makes traditional food with a modern twist. They serve local rarities like wild pies and lamb from Manciano and ricotta cheese«, Elvio Milleri explains.7. Italian tapas
Where: Via Torri di Properzio 8/A, 06038 Spello, Perugia, Umbrien
In the small, slim and steep alleys in the center of Spello lies a small enoteca, which serves Italian tapas and excellent, cheap wine. It’s very authentic and Italian. »It’s simple, but good. I would recommend you drink a spumante Sagrantino or one of the bio-dynamic white wines from the Spello-area, when you visit this place.«.
Where: Corso Matteotti, Via Benozzo Gozzoli, 05723 Cecina, Tuscany
»This is a wonderful place, driven by a wonderful, crazy lady«, Elvio Milleri laughs. It is also a different restaurant – here chili is the focal point. »People who love chili will get a brand new experience here. There is chili in the food, and the food is fantastic. Not just because of the chili, but just as much because the people preparing it know how to do it properly«, the Era Ora-owner says. You can buy chili pasta, chili sauce and chili tapenades here.
Where: Via Vittorio Emanuele 48, 58012 Isola di Giglio, Toscana
Out from the italian west coast, between Livorno and Rome, lies the small island Isola di Giglio. At the top of the island lies a small castle, where you will find the restaurant Ristorante Arcobalena. »They make something completely different with the local spices, it is very characteristic for this area. It is also a fantastic experience sitting at the small tables on a crooked streets looking upwards to the stars«, Elvio Milleri says and recommends that you stay at Paradinis Hermitage while visiting the island. It is a small hotel, only accessible by foot or on the back of a donkey. »Here it is just you and the ocean. And of course the food, which is 100 procent self produced and ecological – e.g.. own sheep, rabbits and fresh fish from the sea.”«
Where: Via Ghibellina 87, 50122 Firenze, Toscana
This is three Michelin-stars we’re talking here. If you in the vicinity of Florence, then Elvio Milleri recommends you a visit at enoteca Pinchiorri. »Choose their menu. It always changes, so it is impossible to predict what you will get to eat, but what you get is the essence of the food culture in the erea. If you are a wine enthusiast, you must visit their wine cellar.«.
50050 – Montaione (FI)
The restaurant at Casello Del Nero www.castellodelnero.it where there also is a hotel and SPA-department.
The restaurant Osteria di Passignano lies in Badia a Passignano, which is a little town south of Florence. Here is a monastery and a super view. www.osteriadipassignano.com
Also try Rosticceria Il Gallo in Castellina in Chianti.